THE GLOBAL MENU

Neha’s Kitchen | Aloha German Bakery | Khao & Papas

If you think Honolulu’s food scene is still defined by poke, loco moco and Asian food, think again. The rise of farmers markets and food truck gatherings has spawned vendors serving up Argentinian barbecued meats, Lebanese zaatar flatbreads, Sri Lankan curries and more. Here’s a closer look at three of them—for their latest schedules, check their Instagrams.

Born in Wahiawā to a German mother and Native Hawaiian father, Cecilia Tanya Koch grew up in Germany and stayed close to her father after her parents split. In early 2023, a visit with him in ‘Ewa Beach revealed what he hadn’t wanted to tell her: He had two kinds of cancer. Koch was 58, married with two grown sons and a corporate law practice in Baden-Baden, Germany. She was also her father’s only child. Two months later, she moved to O‘ahu. “He’s my father. He grew me up. He deserves now that I help him too,” she says. “We are Hawaiian. So family is everything.”

“My mom always said when you return back to Hawai‘i, open up a German bakery.”

— Cecilia Tanya Koch

Cecilia Tanya Koch and her husband, Ralf Koch. Photo: Olivier Koning

That’s the origin of Aloha German Bakery and its improbably complete line of breads, cakes, German pretzels and jams that Koch sets up at farmers markets—Makiki on Thursdays, Kaka‘ako on Saturdays and Kailua (next to Adventist Health Castle) on Sundays. After the immediacies of medical appointments and Veterans Administration paperwork came the realization that she needed a way to make a living—fast.

“We were at the point of what can we do?” she says. Then she recalled what her mother told her. “My mom always said when you return back to Hawai‘i, open up a German bakery. She said a lot of people will love German pastries and it will be a good business.”

Assorted jams and sourdough bread, apple crumble cake. Photos: Olivier Koning

So that’s what Koch did. And with the same clarity she brought to her father’s situation—he needed his family, and everything had to line up behind that—she decided Aloha German Bakery would be true to the flavors from her grandmother’s oven, no matter what. After four months of trying to bake her sourdough with American flours, she asked her husband, Ralf, to find a way to import German flour. (He did, from an organic mill near Baden-Baden.) Unable to get German quark for her cheesecake, Koch experimented with sour cream and low-fat Greek yogurt until she got the right balance. Polish fresh yeast for her apple cake comes from her best friend’s in-laws’ store in New Hampshire.

Photo: Olivier Koning

Ralf, by the way, shuttles between Honolulu and his tax accountancy in Germany. The Kochs’ younger son has enrolled at UH Mānoa. And their older son brought his daughter to meet her great-grandfather, who’s doing better, Koch says. “They played together. That was enormous to see how happy he was. That’s the most important moments.”

alohagermanbakery.us, @alohagermanbakery 

The scene at ‘Ono Grindz and Mākeke in ‘Ewa Beach on Thursday evenings. Photo: Olivier Koning

These vendors bring dishes found rarely, if at all, at Honolulu’s brick-and-mortar restaurants. Check each one’s Instagram for latest details about where to find them and what they’re serving.

ASIAN 

A-Ma’s Gua Bao—Taiwanese steamed buns with pork belly, seasoned chicken, tofu and other fillings. @amas_gua_bao 

Nasi Lemak HI—Coconut rice with galangal fried chicken, beef rendang and vegan curry. @nasilemakhi

EUROPEAN

Little Sparrow—German spaetzle noodles sautéed with savory sauces including cheese or garlic shrimp; and jägerschnitzel pork cutlets. @littlesparrowhnl

Pelmeshki—Eastern European pelmeshki and pierogi street food dumplings. @pelmeshki_hi

INDIAN

Curry Guru—Sri Lankan/South Indian dishes including turmeric rice meatball curry, curry-filled Naan-wiches and kuttu roti flatbreads. @curryguruhawaii

Simply Indulge—Pani puri, dosas and other South Indian food. @simplyindulge808

LATIN

Aloha Alfajores—Argentine cookies made with honey, nuts and dulce de leche. alohalfajoresllc.com, @alohaalfajores

El Gallo—Anticuchos, salchipapas, picarones butternut squash doughnuts and other Peruvian street food. @elgallo.hawaii

Guaiqueri Empanadas—Venezuelan empanadas with cheesy fillings including chorizo. @guaiqueri_empanadas

Guaya—Cubano sandwiches. @guaya.emp

Mar del Plata—Argentine grilled steak sandwiches and sausage sandwiches with chimichurri. @mardelplatabbq

Nosh—Brazilian pão de queijo cheese bread. @nosh_hawaii

Papi’s Empanadas—Argentine empanadas with fillings including crab, chicken and corn. @papisempanadas

Rico Rico Chicken—Peruvian rotisserie chicken. @ricoricochicken

MIDDLE EAST

Māla-Be—Middle Eastern rose water cup desserts. @malabe_life

Saj Beirut—Lebanese desserts and flatbreads topped or rolled with zaatar or minced lamb. @sajbeiruthawaii

PACIFIC

4rm Skrach—Pagipopo, puligi, pisupo and other Samoan dishes. @4rmskrach

Perefoti Island Fixx—Vaifala, poi fa‘i, panikeke and other Samoan drinks and dishes. @perefotiislandfixx