Ka‘a‘awa’s Crouching Lion Returns With a Revamped Look and Menu

I have never been to the Crouching Lion. As a townie, it’s rare for me to even get to Windward O‘ahu. But when the news comes that the landmark restaurant is reopening after a long closure, I’m curious enough to make the drive out.

SEE ALSO: Hawai‘i’s Oldest Restaurants Are Still ‘Ono After All These Years

The History

Since I don’t know anyone who’s been to the Crouching Lion, I talk to Ian Lind, investigative reporter and son of the restaurant’s original operator, John M. Lind. It was John Lind who in 1952 convinced Reginald Faithful to convert his Ka‘a‘awa home into an inn and restaurant. The Crouching Lion became a go-to for that side of the island.

Lind and Faithful hired Joe Sheridan, originally from Ireland and credited with inventing Irish coffee, to serve up European-inspired cuisine. One of his best-known dishes at the new eatery was the Slavonic Steak.

Ian Lind and his sister Bonnie in front of the Crouching Lion in 1952. Photo: Courtesy of Ian Lind

The restaurant changed hands over the years. Searching online, I find that by nine years ago, the menu included dishes like kalua pork sandwiches and coconut shrimp. There were rumors about a return in 2017, but that fell through. So the Crouching Lion sat quiet.

Until now. We’re invited for a preview tasting of the restaurant’s latest iteration. And we have no idea what to expect. “It’s going to be rough making it work out there,” says Lind, who lived in Ka‘a‘awa for 28 years before moving to town. “But for people who live out there, it’s the only sit-down place for dinner without having to drive 30 minutes.”

Driving out, it’s as Lind said. The only place selling food nearby is a 7-Eleven.

The Crouching Lion Today

Photo: Andrea Lee

The restaurant’s silhouette remains much the same, easily distinguishable from the surrounding houses against the verdant Pu‘u Manamana and the rock formation for which it was named. The building has been updated with a fresh coat of black paint, wood detailing and an extended lānai space.

Photo: Andrea Lee

The interior spaces are impressive, offering a cozy setting around every corner. The lānai has sweeping views of Kahana Bay, a band is playing and the robata grill is getting fired up.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Curious about who’s behind all this, I meet the new owner. Dr. Eddie Kim, a former university professor and founder of Asia Pacific International School in Hau‘ula, is now a first-time restauranteur. He and his business partner see in the Crouching Lion a way to bring the community together. Kim is encouraged that during the renovation, folks stopped by to share their memories. “We recognize how special this place was for our community and feel a great sense of responsibility to bring back its past glory,” he says. “We feel so grateful for all the encouragement.”

Photo: Andrea Lee

A Korean immigrant and international educator, Kim talks excitedly about a menu that will bring together East and West. Many dishes are served family-style so people can share. Executive chef Ainoy Vongsy, the former executive sous-chef at Fleetwood’s on Front Street, which closed after the fire in Lahaina, brings his Laotian heritage and influences. Alcohol choices range from bourbon and sake to soju and makgeolli.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Our dinner begins with ‘ahi noodles ($28) topped with uni, tobiko and micro shiso and seasoned with ponzu and wasabi. The noodle-like lengths of fish make this a fun appetizer; the fresh, creamy uni turns it decadent.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Next up is duck breast grilled on the robata ($18)—very tender and moist.

Photo: Andrea Lee

The wagyu short rib tacos ($18) are super saucy, flavorful and smoky with plenty of meat.

Photo: Andrea Lee

The standout dish for me is the uni pasta ($32) with glistening ikura and oyster mushrooms. I’ve had other versions before, but not like this. The chewy buckwheat noodles are coated in a creamy, surprisingly sticky sauce that adds a textural depth to the umami. The noodles are so good I would enjoy them even without the uni.

Photo: Andrea Lee

Having gone in with no expectations, I’m blown away. Worth the drive? For the view, ambience and food, yes—Crouching Lion ticks all these boxes. But more than that, it’s a place with memories and meaning to the community. I’m rooting for the restaurant to make it at a time when a lot of our favorite old ones are closing.

SEE ALSO: Gone, But Not Forgotten

The Crouching Lion opens to the public today, May 1. To celebrate, there will be live music tonight and every weekend. Make a reservation online and choose where to sit—from somewhere with an ocean view to a spot by the robata grill. There’s plenty of parking around the restaurant, which is easy to spot on the side of Kamehameha Highway.

Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., 51-666 Kamehameha Hwy, Ka‘a‘awa, (808) 830-5025, thecrouchinglion.com, @thecrouchinglion